Acceptable Hot Water Temperature & Cylinder Thermostat Failure

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    Apologies, I thought this was in reference to the other thread where you assumed it was a no win no fee solicitor. I stated it was not, I now see only once. You again stated no win no fee in the next post.

    It is not entirely about compensation - it is about whether installations were of a functioning and safe standard in the first place.

    I stated that the LL had agreed to end tenancy. I am still living in the property with a number of outstanding unresolved issues. Am I to ignore them just because an agreement to end the tenancy has been made? Does that mean certain obligations are forfeit?

    The LL has clearly shown they have no consideration for safety at the property, given the cooker wiring issue. Is it wrong to suggest or investigate as to whether the hot water system might be faulty or pose a potential risk? Perhaps I should turn the hot water tank on all day, which I never have done, and see what happens. I'm presuming and hoping it would all be fine, although I have had conflicting opinions from heating engineers - it will either cut out or vent to the loft, or the cylinder could crack and leak.

    Given I had to wait for a cooker to fail to see what would happen and to find out it was not safe, perhaps any further concerns are understandable and acceptable.

    I reitereate that I was not provided with an EICR, so do not even know if the electrics in the property are safe.


      Some battles you can win, some you can't. Given the longstanding problems I think you're banging your head against the wall here. If you think the property is unsafe, and particularly if you have children, you should move. Whatever the rights or wrongs (and I wouldn't want your LL either) it's you or your family who will suffer the consequences of anything goes wrong.
      Assuming it is a vented system it will vent so is unlikely to crack the cylinder.



        1. Ask for a copy of the EICR
        2. Contact local council environmental health
        3. The cylinder stat is usually secured by a band type of thing (see pic below)

        4. Do you have an EPC?
        5. Do you have a current gas safety certificate

        I am presuming you have a standard 2 x zone valve system with a cylinder and header tank. In this case if you keep the hot water on it should not boil over as the water temperature is limited by the boiler thermostat.
        The thermostat missing means that your system will keep trying to heat the hot water circuit when it is already warm enough- this will cost you money (you are then paying to heat up the cylinder cupboard)


          Thank you for this.

          The manual for the boiler simply states the only control is the “Boiler Temperature Control”. This is set to the absolute minimum. The cylinder thermostat was not regulating in any way - it could be set to 20° or further up to 90°, yet the water temperature would remain around the same scalding temperature from the tap.


            ^^ your LL or LA has a responsibility to provide you with a copy of the EICR

            ask for it in writing


              I have tried to get the hot water to turn on at a lower temperature. The tank wants to only kick in at 55 degrees, but it will allow being turned a little lower without cutting out.

              The tenant has a right to be able to control heating temperature, but does this extend to hot water temperature? Is Legionella a factor here? Should any controls/devices to limit temperature be fitted elsewhere on the system and the tank always left at 55 degrees?

              I have recorded temperatures up to 57 degrees at the tap. It’s not the 60 degrees that HHSRS states is too hot, but in terms of potential scalding risk, those few degrees are perhaps irrelevant.

              The hot taps will give out cold water for around twenty seconds, then quite rapidly rise to a scalding temperature.


              It appears that the water heats 8-9 degrees higher than what it is set at. Is this normal? It doesn’t sound like it should be.


                May be a daft question but is the hot tap water actually coming from the tank?

                I've seen setups where only the shower is fed from a tank, that's because the mains pressure is fine for the taps but it isn't high enough for a shower.

                If you have a combi-boiler then the tap water may/will be coming from there and fiddling with the tank thermostat will make no difference.


                  This is the swiftly edited post which is still to be approved, with some edits:

                  Unfortunately it's the case that we have an LA that doesn't seem to care. They have told us to outright ignore other issues in person. This is what we have been dealing with.

                  The system is a vented one (should there be a separate venting pipe? It appears there is not if so). It appears that the cylinder stat on the front of the tank was either not connecting properly to the tank, or could possibly be faulty. Hot water at all non-mixing taps (three sinks, one bath) is 55°, going up to 57°. The hot water is not on 24/7, it is only boosted when needed, for a period of 1-3 hours, as dictated by the timer switch.

                  The tank itself it quite small - it empties quickly, therefore there are pauses between baths/showers/washing up whilst the hot water is replenished.

                  The issue was reported to the LA as “scalding hot water” from the taps in May. The LA told us that the LL asked if there was a manual present for the tank. There is no manual present. I had previously told LA that the water temperature is consistently too hot and there is no fluctuation in temperature. LA then tells me hot water cylinders often fluctuate in temperature.

                  It has taken until September for an electrician to attempt to wedge the thermostat in the hope that it connects with the tank property. LA states that 55° is the correct temperature at the outlet. NHS, HSE and HHSRS guidelines would suggest that this is not a suitable temperature.

                  The shower is the only outlet that is not scalding hot - although it was initially - I would not know what has changed that has reduced the temperature to this outlet. The boiler is set to its minimum level at the “Boiler Temperature Control” dial. It is a Baxi Solo HE A Range condensing boiler.


                    Cylinder stat has been tested set at 40°. Water at the tap is 51°. Is the tank set to heat by default to a certain temperature that perhaps cannot be adjusted, or is this a fault?


                      My hot water (from combi boiler) is set at 62. Seems pretty normal. I think you are looking for problems maybe.


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