Failed Electrical Safety Certificate (EICR)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Failed Electrical Safety Certificate (EICR)

    Looking for some advice over whether it is worth seeking a second opinion over a failed EICR...

    Booked in our usual firm of Electricians to undertake the ECIR. The property failed for a number of reasons, however a couple stood out and made me think it is worth me getting a second opinion:

    - Replace Damaged Electrical Spur in Kitchen ( I was aware of this issue in 2019, it was replaced by them in 2019 and is still in the same condition having viewed it after the fact, I still have a copy of the invoice etc)
    - Ensure Gas Cooker is correctly wired into the mains (The cooker was supplied with a fitted plug and is plugged in away from the heat source and was signed off by a Gas Safety Engineer at the time, I'm aware this isn't the same as an Electrician signing it off)

    As the Landlord I have no problem paying what is needed to make everything safe. However I am slightly concerned by the points highlighted above, the fact that the emailed the information to the wrong address despite having my information on file and then didn't bother posting a hard copy after I chased them up about the missing paperwork

    They quoted £250 to cover essential work plus another £110 for exploratory work after this or £860 to bring everything up to scratch.

    Just looking for a few different opinions on the subject - Not going to be offended by people commenting "Just Pay it"

    Thanks!

    #2
    I'd probably get someone else to do another EICR, either you're in a big expensive southern city and/or they're taking the proverbial.
    When I post, I am expressing an opinion - feel free to disagree, I have been wrong before.
    Please don't act on my suggestions without checking with a grown-up (ideally some kind of expert).

    Comment


      #3
      I would question the spur if they did it in the first place.

      My tenant's gas cooker came with a plug and it's been passed as ok. If it came with a plug I can't see that it has to be hard wired. The elec is only for the ignition and lights so it's not the same as running an electric cooker which needs a big fat wire and its own fuse in the consumer box. So I'd question that too.

      What were the other reasons?

      I brought all my properties up to scratch and will have the same people come round for the next check.

      Comment


        #4
        I would get a second quote. You could also try and find an electrician who is not Vat registered, that will save you 20%. Plus I have noticed that the bigger the electricians get the more they charge per hour The electrician I use has put his hourly rate up from £25 an hour to £30 an hour (no Vat) but another one, bigger firm is on £40 an hour Plus Vat Thats £18 an hour difference.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks everyone so far. Berlingogirl the other Essential fixes were:
          1. Allow one hour to further investigate neutral continuity fault on power circuit and repair or report back problem to client.
          2. Supply NICEIC electrical installation certificate for installed works.
          3. Disconnect and remove 100ma RCD
          Non Essential + Plus work above for the full £860
          1. Essential minimum works as listed above.
          2. Replace consumer unit for new metal clad 18th edition compliant board fitted with surge protection and separate RCD protection of circuits.
          3. Supply circuit chart detailing all required circuit information.
          4. Tidy and secure loose cables as required throughout the installation.
          5. Remove redundant cables in loft space.

          Comment


            #6
            Why can't they just remove the 100ma RCD and replace if with a 30 ma RCD?

            Could you post a photo of the fuseboard?

            My advice would be to get a 2nd opinion

            Comment


              #7
              I've had experience of completely different electrical recommendations, so I would say it's worth getting a second or even a third opinion. If the property is in London, PM me and I can recommend an excellent firm.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Neelix View Post
                Why can't they just remove the 100ma RCD and replace if with a 30 ma RCD?

                Could you post a photo of the fuseboard?

                My advice would be to get a 2nd opinion
                I don't know. Not really an area I am familiar with. Will try and get the tenant to send a photo

                Apparently when they left they told her everything was fine. I have no reason to disbelieve her based on previous experiences.

                Going to get a second opinion like everyone is suggesting.

                Not London, further south!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I’m in Woking if that helps

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thank you. If I struggle I may pop you a PM, but should be okay

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Berlingogirl View Post
                      If it came with a plug I can't see that it has to be hard wired. The elec is only for the ignition and lights so it's not the same as running an electric cooker which needs a big fat wire and its own fuse in the consumer box.
                      Totally agree. In addition, in fact many ovens can be run plugged in via an ordinary 13A plug into a kitchen socket (if they are so designed). A stand-alone cooker/hob with electric rings - no chance, they will always be hard-wired.

                      For what it's worth, I just had an EICR done on one of my properties. It failed on one trivial (but fair) issue which needs sorting, but also because, as he wrote, "BATHROOM LIGHT IN ZONE 2 IS NOT IP44".

                      I expect the electrician concerned assumed he'd duly get the job of replacing all the downlighters in the bathroom with IP44-rated items; however since I am familiar with the bathroom zone regulations I am aware that if a bathroom ceiling is more than 2.2m high, it's considered to be outside the zones and no special considerations are needed for the lights. As the ceiling in question was nearly 2.5 m high, I argued the toss and had a corrected certificate issued.

                      So in summary - yes, get a second opinion...


                      Comment

                      Latest Activity

                      Collapse

                      Working...
                      X