Confused about Gas Hob and Electric Oven wiring

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    Confused about Gas Hob and Electric Oven wiring

    I am confused.

    When the property was refurbished about 10 years ago. The builder fitted a gas hob. He also fitted an electric oven. Behind the oven was a unswitch 45A cooker outlet plate as per photo. We could turn the oven on and off, with the red button below in the second photo.

    When the oven broke. An independent appliance shop, replaced the oven. However, as it had the oven had a plug at end. They just used one of the sockets. However, now if I turn on the red switch it does nothing (as nothing connected to it). The oven has been plugged into electric ring for sockets. I questioned this. Someone (non electricians) told me that cooker wires use 6mm wires, so should should be connected that then a electric socket, which runs on 2.5mm wire. That does not seem right, as they would not have put a 13amp plug.

    Most of the electric oven these days seem to come with a 13Amp plug. Are they lower power?

    So how should I do the wiring for the future for refurbishment? Most of these electric ovens seem to be coming with 13am plugs.

    Or should I get the cut the plug off and wire it directly into the unswiched cooker outlet. I like the idea of a plug, as you can unplug rather then unscrew electric wiring to remove oven.


    Unswitched Cooker Outlet Plate White

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-...te-white/16686



    16686_P&$prodImageMedium$.jpg
    45A 2-Gang DP Cooker Switch & 13A DP Switched Socket White

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-g...et-white/56392

    56392_P&$prodImageMedium$.jpg


    #2
    What a muppet the appliance chap was, but they aren’t really equipped for change.

    I would replace the outlet plate with a 1G socket BUT as new ovens are getting deeper, this often isn’t a viable solution.

    Comment


      #3
      I think I'd leave the oven on the plug, as long as the socket is a good quality one that won't overheat.

      Comment


        #4
        Isolation/plug needs to be accessible in case of emergency.

        Comment


          #5
          A bit late here but - It depends on the rating of the cooker.

          Cookers rated at 3kW or under usually come with a plug and can be plugged into a normal 13 amp socket. (Although you can hard-wire them if you want to).

          Cookers rated at over 3kW need to be hard-wired in to a circuit rated at a higher amperage.

          If you look at places selling cookers they usually have the two different types in different sections.
          eg. https://mooresappliances.co.uk/collections/plug-in

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by JK0 View Post
            I think I'd leave the oven on the plug, as long as the socket is a good quality one that won't overheat.
            I had an oven which had a plug going into a socket, but the socket was loose. My electrician looked at it and said that if he was going to do an Electrical Safety Certificate he needed to "hard wire the cable"
            While the oven was pulled out he noticed that the gas hob should have had a Gas Isolation Valve
            Had I not pulled the oven out nobody would have known that the oven socket was loose or there was no Gas isolation valve,?

            Comment

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