Kitchen floor levelling

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    Kitchen floor levelling

    Evening guys.

    I am planning to use levelling compound to level the kitchen floor at the Bambi flat before I tile it with Wickes self adhesive tiles.

    I have noticed that when my carpet firm do this, they don't remove the plinths first, so effectively the plinths are imprisoned once the compound is laid, and cannot be removed if needed.

    On the other hand, if I take the plinths off before levelling, how do I stop the compound wastefully filling up the void under the units?

    #2
    Hi JKO

    Today I had my kitchen floor replaced, so I happened to have a good look at our levelling compound. The levelling compound was put down about 17 years ago - when the kitchen was first done up. My husband poured the levelling compound on the floor before the kick boards were fitted. The compound will run back a few inches past the kick board and then stop. You won't waste a lot of the product.

    I have to ask, I've wanted to ask this question for a long time........ What is the Bambi flat?

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Claymore.

      Regarding the Bambi flat, this thread might enlighten you.

      http://www.landlordzone.co.uk/forums...d-in-your-flat

      Comment


        #4
        OK, I see. Wow, that certainly is a bambi flat isn't it! My goodness - I think I would have had a heart attack then and there. I hope she managed to clean the flat up properly!!

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          #5
          Hmm. I think I found the last of the blood spatter today actually, when I removed the washing machine.

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            #6
            Yuk, yuk, yuk. The thought makes me cringe!

            Comment


              #7
              You can glue (Gripfill) a batten just behind where the plinths will sit. This will stop the compound running too far back, gives a neat edge to it and minimises the wastage.

              If the cabinets have adjustable legs you should try to raise them up sufficiently high that you don't have to trim the plinths to fit when the compound is laid.

              Comment


                #8
                tlangdon12,

                Thanks. Those are good ideas.

                Comment


                  #9
                  the batten idea I agree with, but as you've already tiled above the worksurfaces, youre not going to be able to raise the cabinets - you WILL have to cut the plinths !

                  as an alternative, have you considered the laminate flooring at b&q that looks like slate tiles? not the ones with about three tiles on each strip, but these are like an individual tiel. I am considering them for my daughters kitchen as the floors are not solid enough to lay porcelain tiles, an old victorian terrace and there is just too much movement in the floors, even with ply/no ply AND the plastic grid system. I just don't to take the risk of it all having to come up.

                  I did consider using LARGE slate tiles (about 1m x .5m) but am not 100% confident re movement issues

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks all. First day back at work today after my tummy trouble.

                    I just unwrapped two 2.4m replacement plinths I bought from B&Q before I was ill, for £22 each. I am shocked to see that these are just lengths of sawn melamine. There is no edging strip either applied or supplied, and no plastic cap for the bottom to seal water leaks. I have had to order all these items online for about the same money again!

                    Has anyone ever mitred plinth corners, (maybe with biscuits) or do you just apply edging strip & do a butt joint?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      plinth corners? if you fitted end panels then the only plinth corners would be butt jointed. you could apply your own edging strip (iron on) and butt joint if you don't have end panels on the units ( I assume your talking about 'kickboards' on the floor units)

                      you could of course also mitre the corner joints - I wouldn't worry about biscuits, toolstation do some pretty good glue for around 12 quid, its a two part with a catalyst/activator spray. I have used a simple L shaped bracket in the past fitted to the inside of the joint of course!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Okay, well I got the floor leveler mixed up and spread on Wednesday, and went back today expecting to see a lovely smooth floor. It was for the most part, except that of course as it dried it left islands of the old glue sticking up.

                        Grr! I've just had to re-prime the floor, and buy another pack of leveler.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Paint the bare edge of the plinth (that sits on the floor) with waterproof glue. Apply a couple of coats and allow to dry between coats.

                          Count yourself lucky. I've got 28sqm of concrete floor to level. It's about 25mm out.
                          There is always scope for misinterpretation.

                          If my posts can be interpreted in two ways, one that makes you feel angry and one that doesn't, I meant the latter.

                          Everyday is an opportunity to learn something new.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks Mk1fan.

                            About ten years ago I DIY fitted a kitchen from MFI. The plinths came with a plastic strip like this that was intended to keep the bare chipboard edge off the floor:

                            http://www.diy.com/departments/homel...m/37703_BQ.prd

                            It was a little fiddly to scribe & cut the plinth (3mm short), but I recommend it. I have ordered three lengths for the Bambi flat.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by mk1fan View Post
                              Paint the bare edge of the plinth (that sits on the floor) with waterproof glue. Apply a couple of coats and allow to dry between coats.

                              Count yourself lucky. I've got 28sqm of concrete floor to level. It's about 25mm out.
                              or fit the edge that has the edging on it to the floor. if you've levelled the floor there shouldn't be much scribing and trimming needed to fit the plinths. just put the trimmed edge up to the units instead of onto the floor.

                              you could even apply a line of silicone sealant between the plinth and the floor. although its good that the plinths can be removed, in reality its a very rare occasion that you do, and the silicone can help stop any drafts from loose/missing boards/skirting etc under the units.

                              28sqm of concrete to be levelled - shouldn't be too difficult, you might want to build it up in layers as opposed to one hit and consider using an adhesive that can be applied as a thick bed to take out any final 'hollows'. I invested in a paddle mixer due to the amount of tiling I did on a recent property, it saved me a lot of time in mixing - I previously used an attachment in a drill but it tended to overwork the motor. I did intend ebaying it after I had used it but found it so useful its been saved for another day !!!

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